Tools and Safety

• Wrenches.  Multiple sets of wrenches are useful.  I suggest a set of combo wrenches (open/box end) in addition to any trucks that came with your truck (some trucks have MB-supplied tool sets).  You may also want to consider additional sets of offset box end wrenches; ratcheting box ends; stubby wrenches, etc.  17mm and 19mm are critical sizes, so you will want to have several styles of these wrenches in case one gets lost or broken.  Also, note that most kit sets of metric wrenches stop at 18mm.  I have usually had to purchase the 19mm "a la carte" to complete the set.  The set should go down to 8mm if possible.  The brake bleeders are 9mm so you will need at least that small.  On the upper end, some of the chassis bolts and torque tubes are as large as 27mm, so examine your truck carefully before you select your final kit.  Lastly, you may want to consider a set of metric tube wrenches for air and brake lines.
  

• Sockets and ratchets.  Having a full set of sockets is very useful and can greatly ease/speed repairs.  I suggest both shallow and deep sockets with 6-point sockets for the bigger sizes over 12mm, but having both 6 and 12 point can be useful.  You will also need multiple 24mm sockets.  24mm (AKA 15/16") is the size of the lug nuts and the hub bolts.  I personally like getting both 1/2" and 3/4" drive 24mm sockets for those applications.  We have broken many, many sockets on the hub bolt removal, so you will need to get the strongest thin-wall 3/4 drive socket for those uses.  You will also need 1/2 and 3/4 drive breaker bars and cheaters for those bars.   On the bigger sockets, I have been only purchasing hardened impact sockets as they seem to be more robust.  You should have a set of extensions for each size socket that you have (we did not carry 1/4 drive in the truck as they were not needed).  The extensions can be cascaded so multiple short extensions might be more useful/practical than a short and a long.
  

• Torque wrenches.  Having a torque wrench is a luxury, but if you get the correct wrench it can double as a breaker bar.  I doubt that a 3/8 drive wrench is useful, but both a 1/2 and 3/4 would be particularly for critical items like lug nuts and hub bolts.  These components are long and will likely not fit in the regular tool boxes and will have to be stored in the cab or in the bed.
  

• Breaker bars: 1/2 and 3/4 drive.  I mentioned them above, but on some common issues (lugs and hubs) they are needed frequently enough that it deserves an additional mention.  Get the most robust breaker bars you can afford.  It sad when you attempt to crack a bolt only to find that the thing that cracks is your socket or breaker bar.  We have broken many of these, so beware.  You will need a set of cheaters to assist your breaker bars.  I use nesting cheater bars to reduce the storage requirements and typically cut these from sufficiently large diameter pipe (DOM tubing works great and is more than strong enough).  These pipes should be no longer than 22" to fit in the main tool box (measure YOUR box before you cut the pipe).
  

• Hex keys up to 17mm.  Depending on your truck, you will need a large key for the tranny, differentials and oil pan.  For my 1300, the critical key was 14mm.  I do know that some trucks also require up to 17mm for the differentials.  Check before you need them.  You can buy keys that fit onto your ratchet (as opposed to actual hex "L" shaped wrenches).  It is also useful to have these keys down to 2-3 mm which is normal for a standard metric hex key set from the hardware store.  These sets frequently stop at about 8mm, so getting a 10 and 12mm key is a requirement.
  

• Pliers and cutters.  You should have slip-joint pliers, compound wire cutters, several sizes of needle nose pliers and perhaps some large "water pump" (AKA "groove joint" ) pliers.  Having small locking pliers like hemostats can be very useful for precision work.
  

• Vice grips.  A set of vice grips are always useful.  I suggest that in addition to the normal style grips that you also purchase a "large jaw" locking pliers as well.
  

• Pipe wrench.  Having one medium size pipe wrench is a good thing.  While you don't need them very often, when you need them, you really need them.  I use the standard steel body Rigid pipe wrench, but an aluminum body wrench would be nice due to reduced weight.
  

• Adjustable ("Crescent") wrenches.  I hate adjustable jaw wrenches as they typically damage nuts and bolts.  But, sometimes you need the adjustability, particularly if a previous owner on your truck has installed English bolts.  A 19mm is 3/4" so that is no problem, but other sizes are potentially problematic.  I only carry one large size adjustable wrench.
  

• Screwdrivers.  Various sizes, both Phillips and Straight blade.  I suggest getting a set that spans the full range from very small to full size.
  

• Pry bars.  You will need several pry bars and I had 3 kinds in my kit.  Normal offset pry bars, rolling head pry bars, and a "Wonder Bar" (both 12" and 4") that had sharp ends for starting the prying action.  The small wonder bar was used to remove inner upper hub gears from the casing.  The large pry bars can be useful in tire actions.  NOTE: a large bar is not a substitute for a set of tire irons but rather an adjunct.
  

• Hammers.  I have a set of hammers that I carry in my truck: a machinist ball peen hammer (medium size), an engineer's hammer, a dead blow mallet and finally a long handled duck-bill tire hammer.  If you have to economize due to weight, space or budget, realize that a large hammer can be substituted for a small hammer but not the reverse.
  

• Punches and chisels.  You will need a small punch to remove the locking pins on the disc brakes.  Having a full set is a better choice and the punch sets are not that expensive.  A set of cold chisels (for steel) are useful for cutting frozen bolt heads, etc.  I have a set of 4 chisels with the largest being about 1" (25mm).
  

• Gasket picks.  Having a dental tool or set of gasket picks is handy.  In many cases, a small straight blade screwdriver can be used instead, but there is no substitute for having the right tool for the job.  These sets are small in size and easy to store.
  

• Small tubing cutter.  When you need it, there is no substitute.  These are only a few dollars at the hardware store; they come in sizes, so get a small one.
  

• Box cutter or utility knife.  $7 at Home Depot will get you a folding & locking utility knife with replaceable blades.  The blades can be removed if you need to scrape old gasket material off the block.
  

• Hack saw.  Mine is infrequently used, but there if I need it.
  

• Wire stripper and crimper. If you are doing much electrical wiring having a stripper and crimper combo tool is very useful.  If you get one, be sure to get one that is for automotive use (rather than AC house wiring) as the AC one will not have a crimper and the wire gauges are marginally useful.
  

• Tie wraps.  The universal restraining tool, these come in various sizes and lengths.  I purchase the 12" ones and then just cut to length.  I also suggest getting a package of the 0.3" or wider 24+ inch long wraps as they can be used for connecting larger items and are much more robust.  These tie wraps also come in stainless steel for heavier duty use.
  

• Air tools.  Your mog has a high-pressure air system.  With an appropriate attachment (via the emergency brake glad hand or a physical modification of the air system) it can be connected to standard air tool connectors.  Once you have these connectors available, there is a set of very useful items that can be run from that system.  Of particular interest is the air sprayer.  If you are running in a dusty environment, just hook this up and spray out the cab to remove the dust.  Plus, you can blow off your clothes and equipment.  An impact wrench will make your life easier particularly with respect to the tires and in particular removal of the spare tire from the frame.  Get the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench you can buy.  Don't consider a 3/4" drive wrench because they use too much air for the mog compressor to keep up with the demand.  I also have a 3/8" air wrench with a 3/8" -> 1/2" converter.  This allows me to use the wrench for the full set of sockets.  I also have a die grinder with carbide bit.  The carbide bit is essential as it allows you to do easy removal of material, cut lock hasps, grind bolt heads, etc.  Make sure you have the air tool wrench set with you in your kit.  NOTE: THE DIE GRINDER WITH CARBIDE BIT SPRAYS METAL CHIPS LIKE THERE IS NO TOMORROW.  USE A FACE SHIELD AND SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING THIS TOOL.
  

• Electric diagnostic and repair tools.  A standard meter is a very useful tool.  Absent a regular meter, a trailer debug light is the second best.  Meters are cheap now, so I would strongly suggest a real meter.  Having a baggie of crimp connectors, splices and spare wire of various gauges is also useful.

• Excavation tools.  Having a long-handle round point (#2) shovel is a handy item.  The shovel is invaluable in preventing injury when doing tire work and handy for tending camp fires.  And, in a pinch, you can actually use the shovel for digging yourself out if stuck.  But, I can say that is a rare use.
  

This list is incomplete; I would have to pull my truck kit and take photos to insure that I have the full scope of equipment.  But, this should serve as a reasonable starting point for assembling your kit.